FABIO GONCALVES TEIXEIRA

The pattern making process is a key step in the development of apparel products. In this process, it is necessary to develop basic patterns, which serve as basis for the interpretation of different types of clothes.The purpose of this article is to present the automation of the basic patterns design process for women's pants construction. To do so, we used the Grasshopper parametric modeling program, which is a plugin of the Rhinoceros software. This system allows a parameterization of shapes, in a way that allows an adaptation of measurements of the geometry created.For the development of the tracing of the basic models of the women's pants, we used the steps indicated in the garment modeling method proposed by Romero (1995). The process in the Grasshopper uses mathematical operations and tools for drawing points, lines and curves.With the automation of the basic mold tracing, it is possible to adapt parameters according to the measurement chart of individual companies or customers.This adaptation also assists in the creation of several custom patterns, such as other types of pants and shorts, which can be interpreted through the basic pattern of pants. In a comparative analysis with the traditional method, the moldsgenerated in the Grasshopper obtained high fidelity in comparison to the tracing done manually, which allows the development of the molds without loss of quality. In this context, this project also aims to collaborate in the construction of a set of basic patterns that support the development of custom clothing.

The present study is divided in two constructive ways: conversion of volumetric bodies constituted by polygonal surfaces (quads) into surfaces NURBS and conformation of patterns or other polygonal entities on such volumetric bodies. There are numerous cases where the target topology cannot be converted to a single and unique NURBS surface, a procedure that would make the task of volumetric transposition easier and which would already be solved by the use of ready made parametric modeling tools. To carry out this article's tasks, generative modeling systems and associative parametrization strategies were adopted. The knowledge for the construction of the systems used in the present research can be used in different fields that have, as a paradigm, the design creativity as one of its beacons, such as Visual Arts, Architecture and Design. The present work aims to make use of digital manufacturing through laser cutting, 3D printing or CNC milling technologies, at the same time expanding strategies.

New products development is a highly complex activity, where applying methodologies and tools to support the engineering design process is fundamental in conducting the numerous activities between the phases involved. The conceptual design phase is a critical moment for product success, where access to the existingdesign knowledgeand the prior experience of the designer are the basis for building the creative process. Thus, the Design-by-Analogy (DbA) field isa design approach that uses analogousprocesses to stimulate ideas generation seeking innovative solutions through computational techniques and tools. In this context, this article aims to propose a model forasoftware developmentbased on DbA techniques to stimulate and assist designers during project process. To fulfill this objective, literature review and existing state of the art DbA software survey establish the knowledge bases for this study. Given extracted information from these sources, analysis criteria were defined for the existing software quality characteristics evaluation. This, combined a set of desirable characteristics to establish the requirements that guided theelaboration of theproposed model, specifying its components and structure. Theresult of this paper is the model proposal, where combining existing techniques and new components that explore alternative paths will promote advances in DbA field. This model will guide the development of a softwareto aid and stimulate the conceptual phase of the project, allowing the registration of the knowledge generated during the development of projects so that they can be reused in future projects, adds new possibilities giving continuity to the studies in digital tools to support the engineering design process.

This article focuses the evolution of a graphical language, introduced at the start of the twentieth century, namely with the term Rendering, in the USA. The works of Raymond Loewy, Norman Bel Geddes, Henry Dreyfuss and Walter Dorwin Teague between 1930 and 1960 were chosen as subjects of analysis. This article presents an overall view of their projects at the time, knowing that they were pioneers in changing the visuality, construction and presentation of images. As a methodological strategy, our research took the biographies of different authors, their main projects, collaborations and individual image productions into consideration. In carrying out our research, it became clear that precursors of this graphic language were not treated with appropriate consideration in design literature. Even today, when the subject is dealt with, it's often treated lightly, even in specialized biographies.